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THE
PLAYING FIELD - PART TWO
CURRENTS
The bigger the surf, the stronger the currents are going
to be. You typically will face two types of currents in a normal
go-out:
1. Longshore currents.
Longshore currents move up or down the beach, parallel
to shore. They are generally stronger in the surf zone, so remember
this when you're paddling out. Although they're more of a nuisance
than a serious threat, longshore currents can be dangerous if you're
near a pier, rock or jetty. If you're in a longshore current and
are having trouble getting past the surf zone and see yourself approaching
a large structure, exit the water immediately and walk back up the
beach. The last thing you want to do is get caught between a hard
place and the impact zone. |
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This is
one kind of ripping that you don't want to be a part
of. |
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2. Rip
currents. Rip currents are the most dangerous current
for any beachgoer. They can be an asset or a major threat to your
safety, depending on how you understand them. As broken waves wash
toward shore, they carry a lot of water with them. The water pools
up next to the beach and forms a longshore current on the inside.
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As the water moves
up or down the beach, it will often funnel back out to sea in the
deeper spots. This swift current goes straight out through the surf
zone and dissipates once it's beyond the break. Rip currents are
easy to spot. Because they're in deeper water, there are usually
no waves breaking in rips. Also, you'll notice foam and rapid water
moving out to sea; strong rip currents look like rivers in the middle
of the surf zone. Near a reef, the rip might be in water that's
a deeper blue. If you find yourself in a rip, don't try to swim
against it -- it's almost impossible to swim faster than the speed
of a strong rip, and the effort will only tire you out. The best
way to get out of a rip is to swim up or down the beach, parallel
to shore. If this still doesn't free you up, and you feel like you
won't be able to get back to shore on your own, remember that the
universal distress signal is the waving of one arm.
TIDES
Tides are created by the gravitational attraction of
the moon and the sun on the earth and its oceans. They have a direct
effect on how waves break. During low tide, you may be subject to
exposed rocks or reefs that weren't there six hours before. Waves
tend to be steeper and break farther from shore during low tide,
but this isn't always the case. We're speaking in general terms
here, but high tide usually means mushier, slower-breaking waves.
High tide can also cause backwash, which is caused when waves bounce
off rocks or sandbars on shore and ricochet back to sea. During
high tides, you will notice that shorebreaks become more intense.
Most breaks have a preferable tide. To find out when to go to your
local break, grab a free tide book from your local surf shop.
SIGNS AND RESOURCES
Tides are created by the gravitational attraction of
the moon ur when a swell approaches a more gradual bottom contour.
Because mushy waves are softer and more forgiving, they allow for
the fastest learning curve possible.
If you're surfing in an area with a lifeguard, there
are two signs that you should be aware of: |
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Time to
break out the sponge. |
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1. Blackball.
Like death and taxes, it's a sad but necessary part of life. A blackball
flag, characterized by the black circle surrounded by a yellow background,
means that hard surfboards are not allowed in the break. These tend
to be prevalent at most populated beaches during summer.
2. Red Flag.
Red flags mean that the beach is closed due to hazardous conditions.
If you see a red flag at your local break, consult the lifeguard
before paddling out. Red flags may also mark a rip current. |
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EQUIPMENT
Although it's tempting to go to your local surf shop
and buy the latest pro model, the reality is that the modern shortboard
is virtually impossible to learn on. It's squirrely, not very buoyant
and hard to paddle. In order to make your learning experience worthwhile,
choose a wide, steady board that's at least a couple of feet longer
than you. A longboard will do, but the ideal beginner's model is
a soft board, known as a Morey Doyle or BZ Board. The softboards
are made of the same material as Boogie Boards, and they help prevent
your board from becoming a hazard to yourself and others. |
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The one
on the right should be your board of choice. |
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Surf wax is used to prevent from
slipping while you're up and riding. When you wax the deck or top
of your board, move the bar in semi-circles so that small beads
form. Try to keep the deck of the board cooler than the wax and
it will apply much better. To maintain the rough texture, take a
few passes with a wax comb before each go-out. Another option is
surf traction. Traction minimizes the amount of wax you have to
buy, plus it can help slow the inevitable process of delamination,
or the separation of the board's fiberglass and foam.
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Just about every surfer
uses a leash these days. Your leash should be a foot longer than
your surfboard. Although they're helpful, leashes should never be
treated as your only lifeline. Also, your leash can become a serious
liability if it gets wrapped around a rock or reef when you're in
the surf zone. A good option is the quick-release model. The easy-access
tab will free you from danger in one quick pull.
Other amenities: it's a good idea to invest in a
noseguard for your board. The few extra bucks just may save an eye.
Another good safety option is the urethane-lined fins. Everyone
lands on his or her fins sooner or later, and the urethane may turn
what would have been a trip to the hospital into a bruise or less.
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