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STEP
FOUR - PUSH-THROUGH TECHNIQUES
As you paddle out, the first thing you'll have to
deal with is the breaking surf. Avoid the initial impact of the
lip since it's generally the most powerful part of the wave. Even
if you're good at dodging the bullet, you will still have to deal
with broken waves. If you have no push-through technique, whitewater
can be a frustrating obstacle. You're likely to spend more time
making up for lost ground than riding waves. There are a number
of different push-through techniques that you should have in your
repertoire: |
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Whether
you make like a turtle or make like a duck, the idea
is to get you on the other side of the rolling whitewater.
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1. Push-up.
In smaller waves, the push-up method is best. Get a lot
of paddling momentum, and as you approach the breaking wave, push
up so the wave rolls over your board and underneath your chest.
Make sure you're headed directly into the wave; if you're angled
or sideways, the whitewater will probably knock you off your board.
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2.
Duck-dive. When the surf is more powerful, it's best
to go under the breaking wave. The duck-dive is the most common
technique, and it can be a major asset in surf from 2 to 10 feet
and beyond. In order to duck-dive properly, paddle toward the breaking
wave with maximum speed. Just before impact, grab the rails of your
surfboard with both hands, push the nose of your board underwater,
press on the tail of your board with your dominant foot and guide
the board under the turbulence. The pushing motion combined with
the weight on the tail should allow you to pop back up after the
wave passes over you. Unfortunately, a good beginner board is usually
too buoyant for a proper duck-dive. Even with a small, sinkable
board, duck-dives take awhile to learn.
3. Turtle-roll.
If your board is too big and buoyant to push underwater, the turtle-roll
is a better option. As you approach the oncoming wave, grab the
rails of your surfboard well ahead of your shoulders. Just before
impact, turn over with your board so that it sits on the surface,
fins up. While you're underneath the board, a frog kick will help
propel you and your board through the breaking wave. When the wave
passes, roll right side up. The turtle- or Eskimo-roll also is an
effective defense against an oncoming loose surfboard or an out-of-control
surfer. When you see either one headed your way, assume the turtle
position and roll away from the oncoming hazard.
Whatever method works best for you, remember
this: unless you're facing a Waimea Bay closeout, it's bad etiquette
to let go of your surfboard when other surfers are around you. Also,
the surfer up and riding always has the right of way. If he or she
establishes a direction, you're obligated to move in the opposite
direction, even if it means paddling into the breaking part of the
wave and getting pummeled by the whitewater. In order to avoid any
violations of surf-traffic etiquette, perfect one of these push-through
techniques before surfing in crowds.
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